Monday, August 23, 2004

Seoul - Take 2

Someone told me the other day that the younger generation of Koreans do not like the big-bro attitude of Uncle Sam (join the band!). The joke on the street is that the Korean President calls up the White House from his Blue House the moment he is elected, even before addressing his nation!

Well, so much for US presence in this country. The influence can be sensed if you visit the Northern parts of Seoul, particularly the areas aroung Itaewon across the Hangnam river, where there is a US army base, and where the prime red light district of Seoul is located. You can spot bands of soldiers (of course in casuals and off duty) drunk and partying in the streets into the wee hours of the morning. Also, you can sense the influence in every aspect of Seoul's life - roads, malls, bridges, amusement parks, gas stations, offices, cars .. you name it! Everything's like it is in the US. One is forced to wonder where are the shy, demure girls and self-respecting men proud of their culture gone?!

There's an OK-Mart for every K-Mart. There's McD's, KFCs and Pizza Huts all over the place. Why, there's even Bennigan's and Outback Steakhouse around the corner from my hotel! Now, that's something!! :) Yet, it is surprising how adamantly these people have refused to learn the English language. I haven't come across one Korean who has not been educated in the US but speaks fluent English. I wonder how they do commerce with the rest of the world without knowing their language! Maybe the way the Japanese do (I haven't understood them either). It's a mighty exercise, albeit funny, hailing a cab and showing the driver a printout of Korean script instructing him to take me to my hotel or to my office or to the nearby bus station! From Anyon-Haseyo to Komap-Sumnida (Hello and Thank you, apparently), it is interesting at times and highly irritating at times to hear the droning of a tongue you're not accustomed to. In the taxi for example, the FM incessantly keeps chattering off in the background, and I'm unable to communicate to the cabbie that he should switch it off! Pity!

Seoul

If there's one thing I've been most amused by Koreans is their habit of brushing their teeth day in and day out. An average Korean in Seoul brushes his teeth about 4 times a day - after breakfast, after lunch, after dinner and just before sleeping. No wonder most of them have eroded enamel much before their thirties.

It has been a fortnight since I landed in Seoul, and I'm yet to recover from the alienation. Though friendly, Koreans are inherently shy and will not talk to you unless you approach them. Demure, shy girls, lost in themselves. Confident looking men. And a humongous population of teenagers form the majority of Seoul's populace. Almost as advanced as any big American city, Seoul is the hub of South Korea's business and industrial activities. There aren't many natural resources in the country. But they seem to have made the most of what they have and today, after 56 years of being a Republic, they are among the leaders in the consumer electronics, semiconductor and automobile industry. Pretty impressive for a country which was under Japanese occupation for 35 years, partitioned from its northern brethren soon after WW2, invaded from the North 5 years later, and having endured the brunt of the US-USSR Cold War throughout the 60s, 70s and 80s. Much of the development is attributed to US support during this time, when mighty highways were built, infrastructure was overhauled and commerce and innovation were given high priority. But there's no denying the fact that the Koreans as as smart and hard-working when it comes to contributing to their motherland.